The wonderful Yakitori Hitomi is situated about a 2 minute stroll from where I was living in Kyoto... yet I only stepped inside the door of the establishment the night before leaving for Australia about 8 weeks ago! I punished my partner for days after our first meal in the yakitori-ya (which he admits to deserving) as he'd refused to check it out earlier. He'd baulked at my dining suggestion on several occasions because he'd believed a few sticks of chicken wouldn't have provided a decent enough feed... He was wrong. The meal was delicious - finger lick'n good if you like - and there was plenty of variety to choose from. We had a belly-full of "sticks" as they were very decently priced at around 150Y per item and we also enjoyed some grilled riceballs, chicken soup, salad etc etc. For all our chickeny goodness and local sake we paid around 2000yen per head. A very reasonable price for any meal but this was eggseptional. Chortle chortle. I do crack myself up sometimes... ok enough with the fowl jokes..
Starting with something obvious we chose these mouthwatering looking sticks containing chicken and baby leeks (torinegi) glazed with a superb housemade yakitori sauce.
A regular insisted we try the momo shio - simply grilled thigh with salt, no sauce (tare) - which would enable us to experience the "real taste of the Kyoto chicken" - and boy did it. Wonderfully succulent chook with plenty of flavour. The chicken was expertly cooked by the owner Hitomi san who works that grill like a man possessed, albeit a relatively relaxed possessed being, ensuring the temperature is consistently optimal and there's just enough smoke to give his wares a kiss. He turns the skewers with clockwork precision and knows, almost without looking, when to zip them off the grill and onto your plate. A little squeeze of sudachi lime and ...well you simply have to try it to understand.
The tsukune below (seasoned minced chicken) - here served with spicy mustard ( but commonly served with a small egg yolk) was one of the best tsukune I have sampled.
The sake was smooth, with a hint of sweetness - selected by our waiter from a local range.
The staff were more than happy to help us and even attempted a little English! We didn't really require them to but it was really sweet that they tried and was a good sign that foreigners are welcome - so do seek the place out. The whole team really seem to enjoy working here and demonstrate obvious respect for their employer.
The local woman who recommended the momoshio also informed us that most people go to Hitomi because of the hospitality of the chef/owner - they love the food of course but just as important to them was the way they are looked after and valued as a customer. Its the type of place anyone would be proud to call their local. If only I'd known earlier... Although I really can't complain as I was back in Kyoto during the last couple of weeks and ate there twice... making a certain person just a tad envious... well he had plenty of opportunities.... so HE can't complain either!
Below: mushrooms wrapped in bacon and Tebasaki (chicken wings).
Various bits on the go at one time - the orders are non stop and this small grill caters for the clientele on two floors. Every part of the chicken is used - from the cartilage to the gizzards to the parson's nose. The livers are simmered in soy, sake and ginger and the karaage (fried chicken) is sensational. The Kamo (duck) fillet was rare and tender and they even do small hotpots of chicken sukiyaki. There are a variety of salad/vege type items too but they don't seem to be a priority for most of the diners.
Grilled rice balls below with pickles - a great ending to the meal with a cup of homemade chicken broth.
You will find Hitomi on Nijo street just east of Kawabata street on the south side of the road. It is only open at night and is booked out about a week or so in advance so if you can find someone to make a booking for you please do so - or just take a risk and turn up - if they are busy you can try Rive Gauche French restaurant as you head back towards Kawabata street (that runs parallel to the east side of the Kamo river) . I will find the phone number for you shortly and post a few more pics from my recent trip including an image of the front of the building... stay tuned for more shortly!
