Natsu Mikan なつ ミかん

                                 

I've been wanting to try one of these for so long but somehow every time I stopped to admire them in the shiny glass cabinets of the local food hall I would shrug my shoulders, turn and keep walking... there was some lingering memory, way in the back alleys of my child-mind that somehow linked to the vision and reminded me of those "healthy" kid's b'day parties from my childhood when some "do-gooder" parent would go to the trouble of making relatively "healthful" party treats - when all we wanted was some cocktail franks, fairy bread and lolly bags filled with all kinds of crap  - and on that odd basis I was worried I'd be disappointed in this delicacy as a dessert.  Particularly odd and ironic as I would be the first one to be "do-gooding" should I be hosting my own children's parties... should I not have forgotten to have kids...  

Natsu Mikan is a particularly large summer Mandarin or Tangerine - they are very refreshing, a little tart but with just enough sweetness. This wagashi (traditional Japanese sweet), from Kyoto's famous Oimatsu in Arashiyama, is available in early summer when the fruit is in season. I was fortunate enough to be gifted one by my friend Tamai san when he came to visit one afternoon. I was extremely happy to receive it as, finally, I would get to taste this sweet that I'd been ignoring for the most obscure of reasons. 

It was delicious - served chilled , the sweet-tart jelly made from the freshly squeezed juice was one of the most refreshing desserts I might ever possibly enjoy on a summer's evening.  I highly recommend seeking one out if you are in Kyoto town during summer. And I might just have to steal the idea for my next book... shhhh...

Milk and cookies at Iyemon Salon

Kyoto's Iyemon Salon is one of those places that's easy to go to any time of the day - they do brekky  - a rarity in Kyoto town, lunch, dinner and pretty much everything in between in the calm but cavernous space.  Plus there is internet available if you need it and a great little design store upstairs.  

One afternoon not so long ago a friend and I stopped in for a cuppa after a long walk and found that they have a delightful little cookie plate on offer with your drinks.. mine this time, an iced Matcha milk. Oishii! The perfect afternoon pick me up. 

More HERE (don't forget to use Google Chrome with auto translator on so it converts to English or your own language. 

Quick trip home to Australia May/June 2012

A whirlwind trip back to Sydney and Melbourne recently made me feel the teensiest bit homesick. The weather really turned it on for us. Here's a few shots of Sydney's Manly and surrounds. Gorgeous!

Just a little breezy too! 

Niti cafe and bar Gion にち カフエ

Hidden away in the back lanes of Gion is this elegant cafe. Although it seems, at first, as though you are walking into a glamourous cubicle - the cafe and bar is in fact quite spacious when you take into consideration the separate tatami room area and second floor which are not at all detectable from the entrance. So don't be put off if you poke your head in and see the place packed. 

Niti seems to provide just one available lunch dish at 1500 yen   - a speciality chawan mushi (steamed savoury custard flavoured with seasonal ingredients) which looked fantastic. It was topped with what appeared to be ankake (clear amber sauce) and crisp, deep fried yuba (soy milk skin) shards. I plan to try it out next time I am in the area so will update once that little necessity has been taken care of.  But clearly this is more the kind of place one drops into for something sweet with a cuppa. Or simply a dish of shaved ice with sweet toppings - a summer speciality but available all year round at Niti with seasonal fruits. 

In the early evening the place turns into a bar with rather expensive cocktails and a few nibbles but it is indeed such a lovely space to be in I reckon its probably worth the yen - and besides, its expensive by Japanese standards - I couldn't get a cocktail anywhere in Australia for under this price so... no complaints here but if you are used to finding a cocktail in Japan for under 900 yen   - which is not hard to do, well I can understand your reservations about paying 1500y. 

We enjoyed both very good coffee and tea alongside a silken smooth houjicha pudding with tiny cubes of black sugar jelly suspended through it and a really moreish and crumbly fig, chocolate and walnut cake. 

You will find this little treasure towards the southern end of Hanamikoji dori - a laneway to the east, just before you reach the main gate of the Geiko/Maiko performance hall.  

Niti is easy to walk past as you can't see inside the place so just keep an eye out for the noren or shop sign which has a design that resembles 2 horizontal bricks, one suspended above the other . You can see a picture on their website. 

Here's a LINK for more details and a map. 

**Please note that the Niti site is in Japanese but if you use google chrome with translate - it will automatically translate to English for you. 

Sigh... Lunch at Quay. Well someone's gotta do it...

A brief trip to Sydney at the end of May couldn't have ended on a higher high. My lovely friends at Quay restaurant invited myself and partner for lunch before we jumped back on the plane to Kyoto. It was such a pleasure to experience a meal here again after so long and to introduce my ex wine maker boy to the joys of both the food and wine menus, the vista and the wonderful Mr John Fink and Kylie Ball. Thank you guys xx

 Chef Gilmore was on leave at the time but the gorgeous and talented Analiese Gregory did him proud as usual. We love starchef Analiese. Pocket rocket and style queen to boot.

If you have seen my prior posts on Quay you will know that I am more than a fan. So instead of repeating myself with the same culinary superlatives I will simply provide a few shots and descriptions of particular dishes. All of which... needless to say really.. ROCKED!!

Fragrant Jasmine tea poached chicken, shaved hand dived sea scallops, Chinese artichokes, smoked white eggplant cream, pea blossoms, perfumed with Korean virgin black sesame oil

Gentle braise prawns, octopus, diamond shell clams, heirloom radish, pink turnips, baby squid and sea urchin

Smoked and confit pig cheek, shiitake, shaved scallop, Jerusalem artichoke leaves, juniper, bay

Shiitake, chestnut and nameko mushrooms, root vegetables, aged gouda custard, hazelnuts, white lentil leaves, cumin

Berkshire pig jowl, maltose crackling, prunes, cauliflower cream, perfumed with prune kernel oil

John Fink and Kylie ball - always great to see the crew enjoying a meal in their own restaurant!

Jersey cream, salted caramel, prunes, walnuts, ethereal sheets (oh mama!)

Nitrogen frozen vanilla mousse, fresh mangosteen, custard apple, feijoa ice cream, coconut cream

If you are Australian I probably don't need to tell you that above is the Guava Snowegg - one of Quay's now famous signature desserts (partially thanks to its debut on Masterchef) and below is the 8 textured chocolate cake that Mr Fink will have you believe I wet my pants over when I first tasted it...  that story has slightly evolved from the original description of my blushing, tears and laughter - which were actual responses.  Just to set the record straight!  But the pants wetting makes a good story so I am happy for him to sustain the myth - and just pray it doesn't escalate!

Money shot!

These truffles were so good I bagged some and took them home to friends we were staying with - who really did wet their pants....

Thanks again lovely Quay peeps  - especially to the staff who were on duty that day who always make me feel like I am walking into a relaxed but special party at a friend's place. xx

Cafe Bibliotec Hello カフェ ビブリオテク ヘッロー

I can't believe it took me so long to get to this joint... truth is it seemed so well established on the Kyoto cafe circuit that I figured I'd look elsewhere. In most countries this wouldn't be my first reaction to a much lauded spot but sometimes the "institution" like cafes of Kyoto are a little disappointing... ie they have managed to hold out for years for some uncanny reason - forcing people to assume they are worth a visit - which helps continues the charade and the place inevitably ends up in every cafe guide in town (regardless of whether they serve up quality nosh, coffee or atmosphere)!

Had I reaslised the Cafe Bibliotec Hello ( and its fab little adjacent bakery) was within walking distance  of my apartment I would likely have given it a look see anyway and discovered very quickly that this gem offers all of the above mentioned qualities .... and then some!

A curiously tropical fronted Kyoto shophouse - Biblioteca is difficult to miss. You will find it on Nijo dori - a few blocks west of Teramachi in a lovely area boasting several cafes, restaurants and hairdressers (I swear there are more hairdressing shops in Japan than anywhere else on the planet - what's with that? and why do they always look like really cool cafes??). An aside -  If you are in the neighbourhood check out the street just north that runs parallel to it - full of lots of furniture places old and new - antique homewares etc. Plus more cafes and restaurants! And hairdressers...

Cafe Biblioteca Hello is a cavernous space ( note - easier to get a seat in that some) with a wonderfully relaxing vibe, great, simple food - gourmet sandwiches, salads, curry etc and really awesome cakes of the homemade variety. The coffee is very good too and they have lots of fruity drinks and teas for the non caffeinated among us.  

Crisp salad with crisp bread croutons, chicken, egg - refreshing and delicious.

Excellent white chocolate iced mocha

And I fell in love with this hand chiseled flooring. Apparently the owner is a clever bunny and renovated the place himself. Hats off to you sir! Wonderful job. 

           

This would have to be one of the most relaxing cafes in Kyoto town - and they were clearly aiming for that outcome  - you can even settle in for the afternoon with one of the books or magazines provided by their extensive library that runs along the western wall. Enthusiastically patronized for all the right reasons. The customers range from young funksters to business types so nice and eclectic...just how I like it. 

The only downside would be that the relaxed pace may have attracted staff looking for the same. I have found them to be efficient enough but possibly a little bit too aloof at times. Twice I have been there right on the dot of opening at 11:30 and they were still mopping the floors and not at all keen for anyone to come in - even after it officially opened...plus when they serve you its generally done so with very low energy. But hey - its not a bad trade off...

Closed Mondays. 

Opening hours 11:30am until 11pm. 

Also sometimes used as a gallery space so keep an eye our for upcoming exhibitions. 

Fushimi Inari Taisha (shrine)- Kyoto ふしみ いなり

Fushimi Inari Taisha is one of my favourite shrines in Kyoto.  (I feel like I keep repeating myself... but there are just too many to love!). It is visually spectacular, energising and allows you to partake in its beauty whether its a brief interlude you are seeking or a more leisurely commune with nature. Visitors short on time can stroll under the first section of the vermillion torii for a snapshot of the whole experience but those with time on their side and looking for some exercise and peace can climb much further up into the mountain.

Fushimi Inari -  the head shrine of Inari (god of business) is particularly interesting to me because it is THE place that rice farmers and sake makers travel to from all over Japan to pray for good crops - rice being a highly important food crop and pretty much the original "business" of Japan.  

Here's a link to the Fushimi Inari site for details ( you will need to use google translate but there is loads  of info in English on local tourism/ travel sites on how to get there so just take a crawl around the web). I usually take the Keihan Subway line from the centre of Kyoto or the JR Nara line from Kyoto station - its only a few short stops from Kyoto station. 

A timely word of advice as I type this post on a very good example of typical rainy season day...  during a torrential downpour you might with to give the mostly outdoors shrine a miss unless you are well equipped with wet weather gear. However, the upside of visiting temples and shrines in the rain is that there are far less people around than normal - adding to the sense of calm. 

Here are some snaps of our visit in in May to whet your appetite. I'll say it again for those who missed it the first time - May is a very underrated tourist season for Japan. I highly recommend it. 

Kitsune (fox messengers to the gods) guard the shrine with a rice plant stem in their mouths. 

At the top of the first set of Torii is a wonderful place to purchase an Ema, or wooden votive, for writing your prayers, wishes and thoughts on and/or expressing your creativity in the case of this particular shrine. Even Gerardo got in on the act, adding a little personal note from his alter ego Takoyaki sensei.  Check out some of the other little foxy faces.... fantastic. 

So proud of his work..

The local village is worth a little wander too. If you are feeling peckish look out for the Fushimi specialty Inari Sushi (Inarizushi).  The foxes who guard Inari shrines are apparently very fond of fried tofu and particularly love the sweet fried tofu which encases the rice in inarizushi. The combination of fried  tofu and rice an understandable signature dish for the area!

Kisune (fox) udon or soba is also topped with fried tofu and is another of Fushimi's gourmet treats - in honour of the fox deities/messengers/guardians... Lookout for the sparrow yakitori - sparrows are an enemy of rice apparently so eating the little critters shows that you are looking out for rice farmers everywhere.  There is excellent sake in the area too and a sake museum I haven't ventured to yet but if I make it there I will report back. 

In need of something sweet - below is some seriously good soy ice cream soft serve on top of G's favourite "ramune" (Japanese sweet soda) sorbet. I went for the Monaka (very light, crisp wafer shell) filled half half with black sesame/ vanilla soy milk soft serve. 

Below are a wonderful foodie souvenier- crisp, sweet senbei (rice crackers)  in the shape of a fox face.  I think I distracted this poor felllow as he snapped the ear off one while I was taking his photo - lucky for me actually as he handed it to me to nibble on afterwards....